Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Stormy Paraguay



I have just made it into Bolivia after a very twisted journey from Florianopolis to the Argentine border of La Quiaca, which involved a bit of going back and forth to Paraguay.

The trip is going well overall. I had a bit of a problem in Paraguay, and had to check out the health service facilities there which were generally very good, and the problem I had with a very bad sore throat and swollen ganglions is now just about over.

Paraguay was an interesting country, with hardly any other tourists around and sort of set in the middle of nowhere, boxed in by bigger and wealthier countries. The people were extremely friendly, from the man who helped us into the Olympia football stadium in Asuncion and subsequently shuffled us around in the stadium to avoid the more boistrous fans, to the locals who would offer to show you round the various places you could visit, not for money, just because they were excited about you discovering their country and their traditions.

From Posadas, where some really black clouds loomed as I entered Paraguay, I made it to Encarnacion, before heading to Asuncion pretty quickly so that I could see a doctor. I found both cities pleasant, and despite a reputation for being somewhat unsafe, I really did not feel threatened at all, unlike in Ciudad del Este which I had visited before. There are some Jesuit Mission ruins to visit, where you can see how these Spanish missionaries organised the Guarani people (in Paraguay most people speak Guarani, and the level of Spanish isn't great...) until they were expelled by the Spanish King. Asuncion was a pleasant city, with the typical South American contrast between very very poor and grim looking slums, to plush houses set in pleasant residential areas. There were a few Nazi war medals onshow at the antique market, a reflection of all the immigrants Paraguay has received, partly from Germany, but also from many other places such as China, Japan, Ukraine. The population mix is quite impressive. I met quite a few American peace corps volunteers in Paraguay, often working out in very isolated communities where people barely use cash, but just live off their land and their animals. They really get exposed to the tough life most Paraguayans live, and the stark difference between Asuncion with all its Mercedes and 4 Wheel Drives to the countryside where bikes are luxury.

After Paraguay, I made it to the Salta region of Argentina after a pleasant stop in Corrientes, a very old Argentine city with some incredible colonial buildings. The Salta region has to offer some of the most incredible landscapes in the world, and you can see some in the photos below. Again, I can't understate how friendly the people are in North Argentina, they are just so warm, welcoming and helpful.

Getting to Bolivia is a little bit like going back in time, but as elsewhere on this continent, the people come across as friendly, and it will be good to see the Salar de Uyuni in the next few days.

In Posadas looking towards Paraguay

Restoring Jesuit ruins at San Ignacion

Lots of stands, not many tourists

A bit of Quilmes...

Jesuit ruins at Santa Ana

A pillaged tomb at Sta Ana

Workers sifting for treasures

Mate supply

Surprisingly long blond hair on the women at this bus stop!!!

The ruins of Trinidad in Paraguay

Trinidad is still in good condition, buildings still standing!

A Jesuit statue

The downpour in Trinidad

Encarnacion

Water from the Yacryeta dam menacing Encarnacion

Felt quite safe with this policemen watching my back

Church in Encarnacion

Cathedral in Asuncion

Photos at the Asuncion antique market

An old war medal

An impressive building

Right behind the building...

The streets of Asuncion

The bus...

Asuncion security...

Getting some food...

An empanada in Asuncion

The exchange rate means alot in Paraguay

Street vendors selling breakfast

Spot the reflection

Need something to drink mate...

A fine selection of juices!

Never seem a hairdressers which buys hair before!

Unhappiness about Stroessner, the disastrous dictator Paraguay suffered under

Students

A nicer area of Asuncion

Dead bird

Some Americans who put me up...

Dengue is a real issue in this walk of the woods

Approaching Corrientes

More black clouds at the riverfront in Corrientes

Some tasty pasta

The Virgin Mary making sure no one cheats!

Nuestra Senora de la Merced

Drying clothes in the main town square!

San Martin de los Andes

Protest about lack of support for veterans...

Jesus and the wine

Salta

The Salta humita competition

Horseriding in San Lorenzo

Beautiful landscape...

Rickety bridge!

Cheeky cat...

A massive cactus

A plain of cactuses

Colourful mountain side

Patron St. Juan celebration in Cachi

Little gaucho!

Everyone wants a go on the swings!

A 400 year old church

Stations of the cross on cloth

Kids crowding around a "testigo" door

Desert between Cachi and Cafayate

Drying peppers

Cafayate landscape

Sunset
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1 comment:

Cedric said...

still a fervent fan of the blog. Hope you're well. Looking forward to more. When are you back in Europe?

Cedric